You can do it – we can help!
When we sit down to create our tutorials, we never assume or require that you have any previous beading experience. So, from getting started picking your beads and threading your needle to determining your finished length and finally attaching your clasp, we’re with you every step of the way, explaining what to do with clear instructions and showing what’s happening with high-resolution, full-color, close-up photos.
All of our beading patterns are written so that beaders of any skill level can easily complete the project. But, some projects are easier than others and great for beginners to start with. Just click on the button below to view all of our easiest beading patterns.
Setting up your workspace
Every crafter dreams of having a dedicated space that they can call their own. The ideal space would have a great worktable, super storage and ample lighting.If you’ve got such a space, that’s great! If not, here are a few solutions that will help (at least until your uber craft room manifests itself).
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Lots of light (preferably “natural daylight”)
No matter where you work, at a table, with a tray in your lap in front of the TV, or with a portable tray wherever and whenever you can, you’ll need good lighting. Bright light makes it easier to see the tiny holes in tiny beads, reducing eye strain and fatigue. Depending on the workspace, we use table-top lamps, gooseneck LED floor lamps, and overhead lighting. And, Lane now likes to add an led light she wears around her neck for extra illumination.
Daylight bulbs
We also switched to "natural daylight” LED light bulbs in all of our work lights because they best represent the true colors of the beads (whereas soft, warm, and cool light bulbs skew colors one way or the other). If you want to ensure you see colors as they appear outdoors, look for daylight bulbs (rated at 5000K-6500K) or full-spectrum light bulbs (rated at 6500K with a CRI of 96%). While originally marketed to photographers and folks with SADS (Seasonal Affective Disorder Syndrome), daylight bulbs are now widely available at most big-box stores. -
A good work surface
How you set up your beading workspace will depend on the type of beading you’re doing and where you’re the most comfortable working. A table is probably preferable if you’re bead stringing or doing wire work. If you’re bead stitching, you might work better in a comfy chair with a bead tray on your lap (we cover bead mats, trays, and design boards in more detail below).
Portable table
We used a sturdy folding table for years. It worked well because we could easily move it from room to room, depending on where we wanted to work, and it kept our projects off of the dining room table, kitchen counter, and coffee table.
Bead mats & trays
One item we find invaluable for any type of beading project is a bead mat. Beading mats are a thin, soft, felt-like foam that you lay on the table and pour your piles of beads on.
And, we discovered that jewelry display trays make great portable beading trays. While they’re not meant for this purpose, their compact size, sturdy build, shallow (but not too shallow) depth and stackable design make them darn near perfect for our use! Just cut a bead mat down to size, slip it in the bottom of the tray, and you’re good to bead.
Where to buy beading supplies
If you’re lucky enough to have one nearby, shopping at your local bead shop is a great place to start. If you don’t have a dedicated bead store nearby, major craft stores (such as Michaels and Hobby Lobby) have been expanding their selections of beads and beading supplies, due to the ever-growing popularity of DIY beading. You can also find what you need at your local bead store or favorite online retailers. Here are a few that we shop at regularly: ArtBeads.com, ShipwreckBeads.com, LimaBeads.com, Aunties Beads, Amazon, as well as vendors on Etsy (just take note of where an item is shipping from, as some are shipped from overseas and can take extra time to arrive).
Substituting with Different Beads or Beading Materials
Many of our designs can be made using comparable beading materials. For example, if our pattern calls for 4mm round pearls, in most cases, you can use different types of 4mm round beads instead (such as 4mm round fire polished beads). Please note: If the pattern is for a bead weaving (or stitched) project, it’s typically not recommended to use different sizes of beads than those recommended, as the original design may not work out as intended. You may also substitute recommended materials with your preferred brand (for example, using Nymo vs. FireLine thread) unless otherwise noted for a specific reason. For example, if we specifically recommend using TOHO seed beads with a particular project, the project may not work out as well if you substitute and use Delica seed beads instead (which differ in shape).
Storing Beads
Our favorite way of storing our beads is to put them in small, individual zip-top bags. These bags are available in numerous convenient sizes - our favorites are 2"x2", 2"x3", and 2"x4" (we use larger sizes to keep awkward items such as cut lengths of cording and beading wire tidy and protected).
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Zip ’em up!
Plastic zip top bags are cheap, keep beads separate, can be tossed on a bead tray or in a bin for worry free transport, are easier to sort and a breeze to store! You can find these bags from various sources such as ShipwreckBeads.com and Amazon.
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How to label bags of beads
Label each bag before you pour the beads in it. We write the bead (or findings) info on a small white sticker. Then we use clear masking tape to attach the sticker to the inside of the bag – with the info facing out. That way, the sticker never falls off, and you always know what’s in the bag.
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Sorting & storing your bags
If you choose to bag your beads, storing them is as easy as tossing them into an open drawer, a clear shoe box, or, if space is limited, a larger gallon-size bag. We’ve purchased numerous 10-drawer rolling organizers to sort our bags of beads by type, size, and color.
Basic beading tools
Regardless of the type of bead work you’ll be doing, there are at least a couple of tools that you’ll probably need. You may be able to find one or two in your house’s toolbox, but it’s more likely that you’ll need to pick up smaller, more delicate jewelry making versions, which will give you better results. Like most tools, prices vary considerably from one manufacturer to another. We suggest that, if you’re just starting out, get yourself some of the following basic tools that fit both your hands and your budget. Then, as your skills progress, you can always upgrade to higher quality tools.
Stitching needles
We use John James English beading needles for our bead stitching projects. These needles range in size from 10 (which is the thickest) to size 15 (which is the thinnest and most delicate). English beading needles also come in different lengths - short and long. The needles we most often use (that work well with the majority of our stitching projects) are the size 12 longs. We prefer these because they are easier for us to hold (due to their longer length) and are able to easily pass through the small holes in tiny 15/0 seed beads. You may want to experiment with different types of needles to find what works best for you.
Flush cutters
Flush cutters are one of the most invaluable tools for bead weaving. They differ from standard wire cutters, or side cutters, as the blades are in-line (or flush to each other) allowing for a very close cut, resulting in very little thread or wire poking out. When using flush cutters, hold them so that the flat (or flush) sides of the blades are facing the side you are trimming for the closest cut.
Chain-nose & flat-nose pliers
Chain nose and flat nose pliers are similar in that they're both smooth on the inside (with no teeth that can mark the wire), and we use both when beading. But, chain-nose pliers have a pointed, narrow tip at the end, making them easier to get into tight places and handle smaller objects, such as jump rings.
Round nose pliers
Round-nose pliers are invaluable for any type of wire wrapping, such as making wire-wrapped earrings. The tool's round, tapered ends (wider toward the back and narrower at the tips) are perfect for forming wire loops of different sizes. Grabbing the wire at the back of the tool will allow you to form large loops, and holding it closer to the tips will form small, tight loops.
Crimping pliers
Crimper pliers are primarily used to tightly fasten and secure crimp tubes and crimp beads in bead-stringing projects. The inside face of the pliers has two distinct notches (one towards the back and one in the front). These are used to dent and then fold over or close/crush crimp beads or tubes to tightly secure flexible beading wire(s) together (such as when you attach an end clasp).
How to customize your jewelry
With any pattern, certain things are totally fine to change if you want to personalize the design, but others may need to remain constant for the design to work out successfully. Check out our helpful tips below to know when it’s okay to make substitutions.
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Bead colors
Everyone has favorite colors, and chances are that you have some different color preferences than we do. That’s why we make up several color samples of each design, so you can get an idea of what it looks like in different color schemes. However, you’re not limited to any of the colors that we use. Feel free to experiment with your own color schemes or use the same colors shown in our samples. When you’re looking at our beading patterns, focus on the designs rather than the actual colors we used. That way, if you like a design, but aren’t in love with the colors, all you have to do is substitute with your favorite colors (and that goes for the color and style of the findings as well).
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Bead sizes & shapes
Most bead sizes and shapes are measured in millimeters and are universally consistent from one manufacturer to another. If a pattern calls for a specific size and shape bead, you can use any brand you prefer.
Seed beads are the notorious exception to this rule. Not only do seed beads follow a different sizing scheme (15/0 through 6/0), actual bead sizes and shapes can vary widely from one manufacturer to another. These differences can wreak havoc in designs (especially, bead weaving projects) by dramatically changing the overall shape and appearance of the project. If a design requires a specific brand of seed bead to work out correctly, we specify that on the Materials page of the pattern.
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End clasps and earwires
Most jewelry utilizes some sort of end clasps or ear wires. These items are referred to as “findings”. There’s a wide variety of findings, and each has its own way of being attached to the jewelry. Our patterns specify the type of findings we used and show in detail how they’re attached to finish off. If you’re not sure if the style finding you want to use will work, just contact us.
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Metal colors & finishes
If a design includes any findings (such as end clasps, jump rings, crimp covers, chain, wire, etc.) you’ll typically want to make sure that all the various metal components you use are the same "color” and finish. This will result in a more cohesive and professional appearance. If the design purposefully features a mixed-metal look, it will be clearly indicated on the Materials page.
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Bead stringing materials
There are numerous stringing materials available to folks these days. Our patterns always let you know what specific beading materials we used and, if it’s important, why. If you’re familiar with comparable products and rather use something else, chances are it’ll be fine. However, some substitutions may not work out as well. So, if you’re new to beading, we recommend that you either use the material we specify or check with us (or your preferred bead supplier) for a satisfactory substitution.
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Sizing & length
Our beading patterns are not designed for a specific size. Rather, we show you how to make the project to size, so you’ll have a perfect fit every time.